This tote is adapted from a pattern in Debbie Stoller’s fabulous book Stitch N’ Bitch. I’ve added a lining, a pocket, reinforced the bottom, and added a decorative finishing touch. These are easy and super-affordable to make. Presented here are three variations, though the possibilities are endless.

Materials:

• 3/4 yards fabric for bag

• 3/4 yards complementing fabric for lining and pocket

• Thread that matches lining fabric

• Beaded Trim (for bohemian rhapsody bag)

• Felt (for skull or blossom bags)

• Safety Pins (for skull or blossom bags)

• Heavy cardboard

• Thin dowel or shish kebab skewers
  

Tools/Supplies:

• Sewing Machine (while you could technically hand sew this I can’t imagine anyone with that kind of patience)

• Straight pins

• Scissors

• Iron

• Glue gun or Krazy Glue & scotch tape
  

1. Decide if you want the handles of the tote to match the lining or the tote itself and cut out pattern accordingly. I suggest always matching the pocket and lining. Don’t throw away any spare fabric until the bag is completely done.

2. With the wrong side out sew the sides of the bag and then the lining.

3. Turn the lining right side out and put the bag piece inside it; both wrong sides should be facing each other. Adjust the two pieces so they fit as closely together as possible. Sew them together by sewing as close to the seam as possible—a few stitches near the top and bottom on each side (points A-D on illustration).

4 a. Turn the bag right side out and baste the top edge. (If you’re using a beaded trim skip to next step from here.) Fold the edge down half an inch, lining side out. Pin the fold and iron it flat. Fold again, an inch and a half, so the selvage is at the inside top of the new fold. Pin in place and iron again. Sew around the hem twice, 1/8 of an inch from each edge.

4 b. If you’re attaching beads: Fold the edge down 1/2 an inch, lining side out, and iron it flat before sewing in place. Fold and iron again, with the final hem being 1 1/2 inches then sew in place stitching at least 1/2 inch from the bottom edge of the hem and being sure to stitch the selvage within the fold. Fold the hem up upon itself and pin together the edges. Pin the trim just below the seam between hem and bag so when the hem is unfolded the top of the trim will be concealed. Sew trim in place, unpin and unfold the hem. TIP: I sew the trim underneath the hem to hide the inevitable crookedness that results from sewing trim. If you’re confident in your ability to sew it on in a straight line then go ahead and attach it right to the hem itself.

5. Turn the bag inside out and flatten the seam along the bottom fold to form a triangle with one of the corners. Make a seam about 1 1/2 inches from the tip of the triangle, squaring off the bottom. Repeat on the other side. TIP: It helps to baste these seams and turn the bag right side out to check their evenness before making the final seams.

6. With the bottom of the bag facing up, fold one side flat to create a seam connecting the corners on each side. Sew along the fold as close to the edge as possible. Return the bag to right side out.

7. Hem the edges of the pocket by folding an edge, basting it in place, folding again and sewing. Repeat on all four sides. Center the pocket on the front of the bag and sew one edge parallel to the hem of the bag, about four inches below it (right side of pocket fabric facing bag). Fold the pocket up so the top front edge is about 2 inches from the bag’s hem. Pin the sides in place and sew. TIP: If, like me, you sometimes have trouble sewing a straight line, select which side to place the pocket according to the straightness of the seams on the hemline. The more crooked side can be on the back and no one will notice.

8. To make the straps: Fold each piece in half lengthwise (wrong side out) and sew the edges together, making a long narrow tube. Sew one end shut, turn the tube right side out, fold the other edge in and sew it closed. Iron the straps flat and sew them onto the hem of the bag, three inches from the seam. TIP: To aide in turning the strap tubes right side out I employ the handle of a wooden spoon.

9. To reinforce the bottom of the bag: Measure the width and length of the bottom of your bag, which will vary depending on exactly how you placed your triangle stitches in step five. Cut a piece of cardboard to match the width of your bag, but that is 1 1/2 inches shorter. Cut two pieces of dowel (or shish kebab skewer) to fit lying diagonally across the cardboard. Then cut one of those pieces in half. Glue the sticks in place (if using Krazy Glue it helps to hold the sticks in place with some scotch tape).

10. While that dries sew a sleeve for the bottom panel: If your straps are the same fabric as the lining then you’ll only have enough spare fabric of bag material; if the straps match the bag then use the lining fabric. Measure the fabric to be twice as wide as the panel, plus 1/2 an inch; and as long as the actual bottom of your bag (or 1 1/2 inches longer than your panel). Fold the piece in half lengthwise, wrong side out, and create a tube by sewing the edges together. Sew one end closed and turn right side out. When the cardboard panel is dry slide it into the pocket and close the open end by folding the fabric in and sewing it shut. Attach the panel to the bag by hand stitching each corner to the bottom corners of your bag, taking care only to stitch through the lining of the bag.

11. Cut out felt patterns, sew pieces in place according to illustration, safety pin to bag and VOILA—a hip new accessory you will probably want to keep for yourself. PATTERNS ARE ON NEXT PAGE.